“Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life.” — Bill Cunningham
Speaking of armor, there is no time like the present to seek protection from the elements, both seen and unseen. What better way to face an ongoing pandemic than to create beautiful armor in the form of luxury fashion? In medieval times, armourers were specialist smiths who crafted only armor. The tendency was to work alone or in very small companies. However, in present times, with the onset of Covid-19, designers are now faced with unexpected disruption: Closed workshops. Canceled trips. Remote fittings. Virtual trunk shows. Limited access to materials and craftspeople. Store closures. Zoom calls. And being forced to spend time inside, alone, left to their own devices— to find their own individual inspiration to create in a time of uncertainty.
What impact did this have on the SS21 collections? It gave designers time to slow down, pivot and edit themselves down to a more thoughtful, heartfelt and sustainably responsible output of apparel, forever changing the future of fashion in real time. With supply chain delivery dates— spelling trouble for delivery to retailers, Covid-19 has accomplished something that seemed near-impossible pre-pandemic: it has forced brands to perhaps reconnect the broken timeline of the selling cycle vs. the need-to-buy cycle, and now Spring/Summer collections should be sent to the stores during the actual Spring and Summer months. Returning to one’s roots while spending time home alone has provided the inspirational impetus behind many of the SS21 Fashion Week collections shown in New York, London, Milan, Paris, Tokyo and Shanghai, or from any virtual place designers and fashion houses have deemed appropriate to show.
Home can be defined as the best place to truly celebrate the simple things life has to offer, and each of the brand and designers featured here has used at least one of the following terms in describing their collection: comfort, serenity, spontaneity, exuberance, security, DIY, tradition, novelty, nature, craft, innovation, timelessness, sustainability, patchwork, love, handmade, relaxed, fun, escapism, repurpose, restore, human, mix-and-match, memories, imagination, simplicity and creativity. By aggregating all these beautiful concepts into one, there is no stronger armor that can be crafted to defend fashion against the ravages of our current reality. See here within what I like to refer as “The Resurrection Of Fashion”.
AMI SS21 offers a thoughtful and balanced wardrobe, in which rational and utilitarian elements are paired with spontaneity and exuberant touches. Both womenswear and menswear feature a palette of serene and subtle colors like natural ecru, warm beige, pistachio and lilac interacting with rich and fresher tones like emerald green and purple. The Spring Summer 2021 show marked the first time AMI presented its collections on the runway as part of the Paris Women’s Fashion Week, after historically being a part of the menswear calendar. Price in USD. N/A yet
The Anna Sui SS21 Heartland Collection took its inspiration from ‘home.’ Encompassing the elements of comfort, security, the smells of delectable meals and desserts being made with care, a place to think about what is happening in the world and people loved. Clothes with a homespun feel––comfortable dresses with eyelet lace and trims, old t-shirts reimagined with tie-dye, “Daisies”; aprons with ric rac, and embroidered tea towels from the 1930s created from fabrics reused in stunning ways––a version of sustainability used to create a better world––a better home for all of us. Taking this moment to reset, creating something new out of something old was really what Anna Sui was all about. The Heartland collection is full of what we need now––comfortable, locally made, versatile pieces without a lot of fuss; flowy apron-inspired pinafore dresses, quilted jackets, shorts, negligée maxi dresses, bucket hats, and embellished sweatshirts that can be worn around the house or on Zoom and Teva sandals. Florals in soothing mauve, cream, jade, black and cedar, combined with painted laces with graduated color, embroideries, crochet trim, and eyelet brings a homemade touch. This collection is all about that homey DIY feel, with a little bit of polish thrown in. Hope for a better future. Price in USD. $1063
For Cecilie Bahnsen’s first showing at Paris Fashion Week, she brought to life an image in her mind of a woman on a journey across a landscape – a symbolic wanderer. Cecilie Bahnsen is known for bringing the traditions and exquisite fabrics of haute couture to her modern Danish sensibility. All novelty fabrics are designed in-house and made in Europe. The label is also using recycled fabrics, such as this season’s cashmere knit and faille. Price in USD. N/A yet
The Cinq à Sept Spring 2021 collection originally drew inspiration from natural environments around the world. Designed during COVID-19 while in quarantine, the thought process evolved and references from urban cityscapes began to play into how we thought about the collection. Longing for the outdoors and finding space for natural elements in our urban environment of New York City became of utmost importance. Instinctively, the collection pivoted and the design and aesthetic became more about evoking a sense of love celebrating life’s little joys. The prints and colors for Spring 2021 translate feelings of freedom and breeziness that we longed for during months of isolation. Our Kacy dress features our beautiful woodblock zebra print which feels reflective of the wild metropolis inspiration behind this season. Price in USD. $425
CIVIDINI goes in search of the elements that have characterized its birth and its growth at an international level. Quality underlying a rigorous design, search for innovative materials while in the wake of the noblest Italian textile tradition, recovery of ancient craft techniques interpreted in a modern key, cornerstones of CIVIDINI’s design, are also renewed in this collection through the revival of the stylistic features that are the distinctive hallmarks. So here are some looks that capture the spirit of the times, a time full of critical issues but also of momentum towards the future, with proposals that thanks to the use of quality materials, precious workmanship and timeless lines, guarantee the attention that CIVIDINI has always dedicated to sustainability whose first step is precisely to be able to create garments that one would never want to part with.
The Dolce&Gabbana Spring/Summer 2021 collection, Patchwork di Sicilia, is a tribute to Sicily, an infinite source of inspiration for the Designers. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have visually woven together a tapestry which recounts the fabrics and patterns you might find in Palermo, Catania, Siracusa and Agrigento – creating pieces of patchwork: mixing of fabrics, atmospheres, colors, brocade, poplin, georgette and chiffon.
In this new collection the Designers have captured their experience of “fatto a mano” – handmade craftsmanship. They hope to inspire a love and appreciation for the arts, handmade crafts, and sustainable fashion within a new generation. Each piece is crafted and interpreted by a skilled hand, so that each unique piece has its own personality. Each artisan and each tailor have sewn together fabrics in a distinctive way according to shapes and colors, allowing each piece of fabric to create its own story. Price upon request Read from source….